Hello K-Type Forums Support Keyboards Infinity ErgoDox ErgoDox USB Receptacle Failure

Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 62 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • Nick
    Participant
    Post count: 5

    I’m not sure if the seemingly small amount of reported issues is due to the notice that the initial batch was having the issue or what. I just got mine in this past week, and while I haven’t broken mine, it is only because I’ve been very careful. You can tell that it is very fragile, and I don’t think the extra solder helped at all. I think it needs some kind of support piece that would sandwich it against the case. Possibly some of the adhesive backed foam that is used on the bottom of furniture or something like that, since it isn’t supported underneath it.

    I think the best bet would be to get a cable like this one, but wish it looked more promising quality-wise: http://www.amazon.com/Smays-Micro-b-Charging-Galaxy-0-65FT/dp/B00AR0A9HW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1446911791&sr=8-2&keywords=right+angle+usb+3.0+micro

    Qudeid
    Participant
    Post count: 4

    I agree, the piece is just too small. I guess I used too little epoxy, as that stuff gets really hard. Unfortunately I haven’t heard back from neither MD nor IC about my PCBs (while only one came off, the other one is feeling REALLY loose and is probably also only a question of time till it’s either off the board or at least one pin loses contact to the PCB)

    benji
    Participant
    Post count: 9

    My micro-usb connector just broke off too, after one day of use. Arrrg, to fix this is going to take desoldering all of those switches just to *attempt* to either repair the connector or transfer the switches onto a replacement PCB. If they’ll even send me a replacement.

    I hope the ErgoDox EZ folks are watching the problems with this keyboard so they will fix them before they begin production.

    Qudeid
    Participant
    Post count: 4

    Well, to answer your other thread as well, when I attempted to desolder I only could pry it apart, but that resulted in the switch plate to be now very dented. I fear, that is going to happen to the other hand as well, when I need to desolder that as well. The switch plate is VERY soft for a metal. Any force applied you probably will put a dent in. 🙁

    Still haven’t heard anything back from anyone… With all honesty, for a >200$ kit together with the delay this is a very very poor experience. The Idea and everything is nice, really is. I loved the device as long as it lasted, but the downsides of it are just horrendous for this price tag. I would expect a device that I can look at without it bursting into pieces. I really expect to get both hands replaced.

    Qudeid
    Participant
    Post count: 4

    Can’t edit my post so I’ll put an update here. Apparently MD-Support has reached out to me but I did not receive it right away as my mail provider had problems.

    @benji: You don’t have to worry about the switch plate. MD will probably replace that as well, if you ask kindly. I think the real important one is the PCB. You’ll have to send it to them, so I guess they will get the money back from the manufacturer for poor quality or so. Wish you luck on you endeavours!

    OverKill
    Participant
    Post count: 19

    @qudeid

    Having just desoldered a whole ergodox the other day I can say that I understand your frustration. I had the same issue trying to get the plate off and I just went with my usual feeling of “if it doesn’t come off like it went on something is wrong” and I found out after a few that the reason the PCB is stuck to the plate is because not all the solder was removed when I sucked the solder out so the switches were still soldered to the PCB basically even though it was a small amount of solder holding it in place. Once I got all the solder out the PCB came off very easily.

    In re: the case metal being soft; yes, the plate is soft because it is made of aluminum. I have had luck in the past desoldering each switch and then using pliers to pull out the switch (sometimes it messes up the clip, sometimes not).

    I used a Weller WES51 station @ 650 and a soldapult to desolder.

    OverKill
    Participant
    Post count: 19

    @qudeid

    Having just desoldered a whole ergodox the other day I can say that I understand your frustration. I had the same issue trying to get the plate off and I just went with my usual feeling of “if it doesn’t come off like it went on something is wrong” and I found out after a few that the reason the PCB is stuck to the plate is because not all the solder was removed when I sucked the solder out so the switches were still soldered to the PCB basically even though it was a small amount of solder holding it in place. Once I got all the solder out the PCB came off very easily.

    In re: the case metal being soft; yes, the plate is soft because it is made of aluminum. I have had luck in the past desoldering each switch and then using pliers to pull out the switch (sometimes it messes up the clip, sometimes not).

    I used a Weller WES51 station @ 650 and a soldapult to desolder.

    -Over Kill

    OverKill
    Participant
    Post count: 19

    @austinbrister

    Thanks for your patience. Unfortunately I am still unable to come up with a solution for you that is why I have not updated you as there is nothing to report. Have you contacted MD for a replacement PCB?

    benji
    Participant
    Post count: 9

    Massdrop responded to my support ticket within 3 days. Ticket submitted Sunday, response on Wednesday, with an apology for the delay. They gave me a prepaid return label for the PCB. They’ve already sent the replacement PCB and a new case, even before they get my return. I’m really pleased with how they’re handling this. I hope they don’t mind getting my PCB back with all the switches still in place, since I’ve bought new switches to save me the desoldering.

    @austinbrier, settle down, bro! This forum is run by volunteers, right? We paid Massdrop, not this forum — although it sounds like some of the same people from MD are here? Submit a support ticket to MD and I bet they will do what they did for me — send a replacement right away.

    I’m thinking of this as a fun project that’s letting me learn about hardware, rather than a traditional commercial transaction. A week ago I didn’t know what a PCB was, or have any idea what flashing firmware meant. This attitude is proving to be quite helpful in enjoying the ups and downs.

    -benji

    hngr_goro
    Participant
    Post count: 2

    I have a little problem here, when I try plug to PC, windows detect 1.0 USB. anyone have same problem here ?
    I try on different PC, then change the cable the problem remain the same. But when I try to using bootloader to upload the layout it works fine and could detect each halves. For a note, I give a little solder on USB receptable.

    Jabakada
    Participant
    Post count: 1

    The connection for my left PCB also broke. How can I contact the support?

    razamatan
    Participant
    Post count: 1

    can anyone recommend a good coiled cable to use for the interconnect? i’m getting a long braided cable for the pc connection.

    adh
    Participant
    Post count: 1

    So I purchased a sweet one of these on the secondhand market, plugged it in to test each one and everything was working fine. Set it aside while I waited on my keycaps, they came, installed everything, and as I was plugin in the short cable to the right board off pops the USB connector.

    What are my options here? I am no pro and know nothing about soddering etc. I can get the board to work if I manually hold the connector in place where it was originally. Can I just get a replacement connector and attach with epoxy? Any help would be much appreciated. I am also interested in where to find one of these coiled cables so this does not happen again.

    Walms
    Participant
    Post count: 8

    Hey adh,

    Your best bet is to get a new USB connector, solder it and epoxy it in place. This connector is going to be hard to manually solder on but not impossible. I’d recommend getting a cheap soldering iron. Some flux and solder. Put the flux on the existing solder then heat the blobs with the iron. Careful not to join any of the blobs. When they appear to melt that’s enough. Then get a clip to hold the connect in place and use the iron to heat the entire connector (there is plastic inside so not too hot) enough to melt the solder. Unfortunately this means you’ll need a powerful iron so it might not be that cheap.

    Once the solder joins are in place, go to town with the epoxy.

    I’m happy to help if you need more guidance.

    The cables I found very hard to source. Massdrop ended up shipping me a better cable, but before that I tried to get one my self. I found that many “USB 3” cables were not USB 3 just cell phone charging cables missing the required internals to connect the two halves. So be aware this could be an issue.

    • This reply was modified 3 months ago by  Walms.
    Buck Gully
    Participant
    Post count: 2

    I finally just got around to rearranging my computer area, so I could finally use the I:C ErgoDox I got from Massdrop a while back.

    Took about three minutes for the whole usb 3 micro socket to come out, still attached to the new, thinner cable Massdrop sent out shortly after that drop. And I was being super gentle.

    So I desoldered all the switches and lifted the board off. I see what the real problem is: there are four largeish pads on the circuit board that sit under the socket, but they had not been soldered. They were still bare copper. I assume those are supposed to have been soldered directly to the connector’s shield to give some mechanical strength. As it is, the whole thing has to rely on the tiny connectors and those two stubby pins, which don’t even go all the way through the board so can’t be crimped.

    Unfortunately, when I removed the connector from the cable I found that the black plastic had broken in the middle, and a couple of the connector legs had broken off and were still stuck to the pads on the circuit board. So no reusing that one.

    Anyone got a part # for a replacement socket? The ones I see on Mouser don’t look the one I have, the stubby pins go out to the sides and not down like the one from the Ergodox.

    Oooh, I just found a bag of SMT micro-usb connectors. Does this thing need both sides of the usb3 socket?

Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 62 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.